Assalamualaikum warohmatullahi
wabarokatuh
Part 1:
As
most people know, I am not a
religious person and, coming from America where there is supposed
to be separation of church and state, religion was not part of my
schooling while growing up. I'm not saying the separation of the two
is complete or perfect in our country, but from my school experience,
public schools have done a pretty good job keeping the two separate
and refraining from encroaching on our religious freedom. To be clear, I
am not anti-religion. I fully respect other people's
faith in religion and enjoy learning about the different religions of
the
world; I just don't subscribe to one. So, why did I choose religion as
my topic for this post? Because the Islamic religion is part of my
everyday life in Indonesia. Most Americans acknowledge religion as one
of those topics
not to be discussed unless you are amongst friends. This is in
drastic contrast to how people in Indonesia view religion.
In
Indonesia,
religion is a key part of personal and national identity and is one
of the first questions out of someone's mouth when you first meet.
Having been warned about this, I was prepared to say that while I
went to church every once in a while as a child, the Christian
religion never stuck and that I was simply not religious. In my mind,
this seemed easy enough to explain, and if anything the people in my
community would brand me as the non-religious volunteer who is
excused because she is American. While true, relying on the excuse of
being American was not how I wanted to define my time in Indonesia.
Yes,
as Americans we are thought of as
outsiders in our communities and, for multiples reasons, we will
never fully be able to integrate. While this affords us some
exemptions to cultural norms, this is not to our advantage. It is
everything we have to fight against in an effort to disprove our
differences and integrate into our communities. As volunteers, becoming
trusted
members of our villages is a key step in ensuring the success of
our mission. Relying on the fact that as foreigners in this country,
we will be exempt from the acceptable behaviors in Indonesian culture
will automatically set a volunteer up for frustration and failure. It is
not the goal of the Peace Corps to make volunteers forget
their former selves and “go native” as we call it, but there are
aspects of our lives in America that cannot be carried over. Some
volunteers struggle with their religious identity and do not feel
comfortable saying they follow any belief other than their own. To other
volunteers, this is not an issue, either because their religion falls
within the expectations of Indonesians or because they have decided that
even though they may not be portraying their true selves, the topic of
their religion, or the lack there of, was not a battle worth fighting. I
fall into the latter group and don't mind saying that I am Christian if
it allows me to focus more on my mission and creates one less obstacle
in my way to completing it. Even though Christianity is not the main
religion here, it is one that is recognized and stops people from
worrying about my spiritual welfare.
As
I explained in my first blog post, and as cheesy as it sounds, Peace
Corps volunteers are sent on a mission with set goals we hope to
accomplish. It is normal for volunteers to start their service wanting
to change the world. This shows great drive and dedication, but is
unrealistic. We have to focus on the goals at hand and the reasons we
were set to our sites. While there is time to impact more areas than
one, we have to pick and choose our battles, understanding that we
cannot change everything in two years. And we shouldn't want to.
Indonesia, with it's quirks and culture, is an amazing country full of
unique treasures, which should be preserved for the generations to come.
How religion works in Indonesia: the bare minimum explanation
Every
Indonesian citizen is required to
claim a religion. Being agnostic or atheist is not legally
an option. The Indonesian government has recognized seven religions:
Islam, Protestantism, Catholicism, Hinduism, Buddhism and
Confucianism and every citizen must claim one of the seven as their
own. A vast majority of the population is Muslim and, at least on the
island of Java, the Islam religion is present where ever you go, whether
it is
the call to prayer, which is played over loud speakers five times a day,
or it is the Islamic sayings that are present in everyday conversation.
When
teachers walk into a classroom at
MAN Ngraho, where I teach, they open the class by saying
“assalamualaikum warahmatullahi wabarakatuh.” This roughly
translates to “peace be upon you with Allah's blessings and
prosper." This is quite an adjustment for someone who used to
feel a tinge of annoyance whenever “praise be to God” or “God
willing” or anything to that affect was slipped into conversation. (This
is most likely because of my personal experience with the Christian
religion, not because of the religion itself.) I am now surrounded by a
religion I know little about and oddly enough, I don't get annoyed,
uncomfortable or feel pressured by the religious presence here. Maybe
because I am constantly aware that I am a visitor here and so should
respect the local culture, but part of is comes from the fact that not
once has anyone ever tried to convince me of the “rightness” of
their religion or pressure me into a religious lifestyle.
Bhinneka
Tunggal Ika, the official national motto of Indonesian, translates to
Unity in Diversity. Not only do the Indonesians uphold this motto in
the acceptance of people from all different backgrounds, but their
welcoming nature is an exceptional test of their religious
acceptance. Yes, there is religious conflict going on in certain
parts of the country, but from my personal experience, the
Indonesians I have come into contact with have upheld their nation's
motto.
Part 2:
"You think the only people who are people, are the people who look like
you. But if you walk the footsteps of a stranger, you'll learn things
you never knew." Pocahontas
Seeing
firecrackers light up over a skyline of palm trees is an
unforgettable sight. The last morning of Ramadan started at 2:30am,
when a traditional Javanese band, loaded onto a truck, woke up the
neighborhood for the last day of fasting. The day stretched out as
everyone waiting for the call to prayer, marking the setting of the
sun and the final buka puasa (breaking fast). At the first sounds
coming from the mosque, the kids in the house ate as fast as they
could before rushing outside loaded with enough ammunition to go to
war. Every type of firecracker imaginable was cradled under these
kids arms as they prepared for battle. For the next few hours, the
kids laid everything they had on the line. As you can imagine, it was
a noisy few hours with firecrackers going of in every neighborhood
and prayers were played over loud speaker from every mosque
celebrating the end of Ramadan. At first I was overwhelmed and
nervous about a house catching on fire as little regard was taken for
safety. But once I adjusted and reminded myself that there was
nothing I could do but sit back and watch the show, I was able to
look up to appreciate the beauty of my surroundings and the sense excitement in the neighborhood.
During
the month of Ramadan
each day starts around 3:30am with Sahur, early morning breakfast
before the sun rises. The man at the local mosque will call out over
loud speakers waking the neighborhood and inviting everyone to eat
before prayer. Once eating and praying is
over, most will take a quick nap before rising once more to start the
day around 5:30am. Once the sun rises, Muslims
do not eat, drink, swear or have sex until the sun goes down around
5:30pm. I didn't want to allow myself to make excuses for not fully
experiencing the Indonesian lifestyle so I decided to give it a try. Not
for any religious reason, but to see what it felt like for the
teachers, students and other people in my community to make it through
the day without food or drink. This was a chance to bond with my
community and make it through each day in solidarity with one another.
Ramadan only lasted 2
weeks for me. The first week started out strong: waking up at 3:30am
for breakfast, then not eating or drinking until 5:30pm. On hotter
days, I would drink water but I more or less stuck with it. Week two
started the same way but there were a few days I couldn't make myself
get out of bed for breakfast, so I would eat around 6am, then fast for
the rest of the day. By week three, this was happening everyday. Then came week 4: the endless snacking
and drinking through out the day. I could no longer pretend that I
was fasting and had to admit to myself that Ramadan was over for me.
Without the religious willpower behind the action, fasting didn't
mean as much to me and so ending it early much more likely. This got
me thinking about how much of the Indonesian culture I’m actually
able to experience. Because I am not Muslim, there is only so much of
the religious activities I can partake in and no matter how open the
people are to sharing their lives with me, there are some things I
will never be able to fully understand. There is a limit to how much I can
integrate and, while I'm no where near that limit yet, I have
accepted that there are certain parts of this culture I will never be
able to experience.
For
a while this got me thinking about what defines a community. I would
think to myself
"isn't that a foundational part of what a community is? People being
bound together through common experiences and circumstances?" A
community is
built to support the people in it and bond them through commonalities. I
have founded my own community here, brought together by shared
silliness, confusion and dedication to understanding the unfamiliar, but
I will never
be part of the Muslim community that I am constantly surrounded by. But
just because I am not part of the Muslim community, does not mean that
it does not affect me. I interact with the Muslim community everyday. My
community if built on the Muslim community, neighborhood community and
school community that preexisted my arrival. The slate isn't wiped clean
every time someone enters a new space. Relationships build on one
another and so do communities.
While I've enjoyed the opportunity to
learn about a religion generally feared and misunderstood in the US,
the more I come in contact with different religions, the more I
question organized religion as a whole. It's hard to feel like you can be fully
open and honest about religion here when it is such an important part
of the culture, but every once in a while, you find someone who is
willing to ask the questions they don't already know the answer to.
To really want to know what your life and experiences are like,
without being afraid of what you might say, accepting the answer no
matter what. These are the people, open-minded and willing to accept
everything about you, I want as my friends.
I
know that this post may not
sit well with some readers, so please accept these thoughts as
my own personal experience with religion, not as an attack on
anyone's beliefs. I believe everyone has a soul that needs tending to,
so whether you take care of your soul through religion, yoga or
listening to good music, do what feels right to you.
I
also acknowledge that religion, culture and community are all separate
concepts, but they are so closely linked especially where I am living
now. I think most will understand my flow from one to the other but if
not, let me know and I will try to clarify! I would love to talk more
about these things. My blog posts reflect conversations I have had with
myself and I would love to continue these conversations with you!